Itineraries: Hiking and cycling in Val d’Orcia


Since 2004, the landscape of the Val d’Orcia has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and anyone who comes here on holiday or on a visit owes it to themselves to take a tour along the paths, through the fields and hills, to enjoy such splendour.

On foot or by bicycle, following celebrated routes such as the Francigena or the old Cassia, or along dirt tracks, touring the Val d’Orcia is an experience that fills the eyes and soul with beauty.

Vineyards and hills, two of the hallmarks of the Val d’Orcia.

We immerse ourselves in the sounds of nature, amidst the cries of birds and the buzz of the insects, and the rustling of leaves and windswept foliage. The noises of modernity are as rare as the very few cars on the back roads, or completely absent if we opt for paths that thread through the fields and take us up and down the gentle slopes that have made these lands famous. Just remember to mute the ubiquitous smartphone to be enveloped in true silence.

And then there are the scents of earth and flowers, meadows and rain-soaked soil…

The junction for Cosona, on the old Cassia, just outside Torrenieri.
The junction for Cosona, on the old Cassia, just outside Torrenieri.
The dirt road winds through fields and hills.
The dirt road winds through fields and hills.

But – there’s no denying it – the sense that gets the most pleasure from these hikes is the view. One is overwhelmed by the colours of the earth and the vegetation, which vary according to the season, and by the soft, sinuous curves of the hills and paths. To describe these landscapes is impossible, for there are no words to do justice to this wonder of nature.

A timeless journey.
Un viaggio senza tempo.
The purest nature.
La natura più pura.

There are many routes and paths in the Val d’Orcia that are well worth following. There are of every length, of every difficulty, for slow-paced beginners and tourist pedalling, and for experienced walkers and cyclists.

Among the countless tracks at your disposal, I love a highly scenic stretch of the SP71B (Provincial Road 71B), to be precise the one that goes from the junction for Cosona (on the old Cassia road, in the Montalcino territory) to the hill a few hundred metres beyond the small cemetery of Cosona, in the municipality of Pienza, also crossing part of the territory of San Quirico d’Orcia.

Fancy a picnic? Or a nap on the grass?
Fancy a picnic? Or a nap on the grass?

It is about 6 kilometres (plus another 6 for the return journey, of course) that make you exclaim “How wonderful!” at every step, and you will not know whether to turn your eyes left or right, far into the horizon, or closer, on the hills, farms, cultivated fields, forests, and vineyards that contribute to drawing a unique and unrepeatable panorama.

You will discover fabulous residences with views of endless greenery, marvellous glimpses that suddenly open up after a bend in the road or a dense group of trees, ponds in whose waters the clouds are reflected, deer watching you from afar. These ‘WOW’ moments are very frequent, but no matter how often they repeat, the effect is always extraordinary, you’ll never get tired of it.

Between the trees, a small country cemetery.
Between the trees, a small country cemetery.

Along the ‘main’ road (which in this section overlaps with one of the routes of the Eroica, the now very famous cycling race along the ‘white roads’) there are several paths that trekking and hiking enthusiasts will not want to miss, as they are beautiful and little travelled.

In particular, I would like to point out the one that descends towards the Tuoma Mill (Molino della Tuoma), after skirting the vineyards of the Poggio Landi estate, which is as beautiful as it is demanding, and offers an amazing panoramic viewpoint along the way: a hillock from the summit of which you can admire a large part of the Val d’Orcia, as far as Monte Amiata.

The main entrance to the Villa di Cosona.
The main entrance to the Villa di Cosona.

For those who love experiencing nature, walking in it, breathing it in and feeling it all around them, there is no better experience. You return to your accommodation tired but happy, refreshed in your senses and soul, and even hungry, but the effort you have made will make you feel less guilty when you indulge in the pleasures of the food and the wine, which here in the Val d’Orcia are numerous.

The only caveat (valid for the entire route, not just the side paths): if you see shepherd dogs, wild boar with cubs, or wolves, turn away without running. It is unlikely – but not impossible – that you will come across any of these animals, but it is good to keep your eyes open at all times to avoid unpleasant encounters.

Enjoy your walk!


Some very interesting places

If you want to stay in the area, or if you want to taste excellent wines and genuine olive oils, read on below. You will find other places and addresses on the internet.

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